Bridge Issues

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Rattles from the bridge

The Teye-bridge has two known issues, both of which are easily resolved. A rattle or zing can develop in two ways:

1. The set screw of a saddle may not be fully seated. This will eventually occur with any E-, R-, S- or T-series guitar that is exposed to the vibrations of the road. To solve this problem, simply screw down the set screw (clockwise) while the string is holding the saddle in place. The small nylon washer should sit completely flush against the bridge frame. It is best to take small needle-nose pliers; wrap some tape (duct tape, electrical tape, painter’s tape) around one of the pliers points (beaks, legs) to prevent damaging the aluminum of the bridge frame. The leg without tape holds the nylon washer, and the leg with tape holds the bridge frame. Now screw down on this hex head set screw until it sits tight again. Make sure the saddle does not move back and forth, because that would affect proper intonation. The ideal tool to use for the set screw is a screwdriver-type 1/16 Allen wrench, but an L-shaped one will work too.
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2. The actual saddle is not fully seated. You can check this by removing the tension from the string in question, and then rocking the saddle back and forth. The saddle should sit flush against the bottom of the bridge frame. When you push down hard on the saddle and it rocks back and forth, there is a problem. By using the materials and construction that I do, and that are so great for the sound, there is always the possibility that after adjusting the intonation, the set screw will ‘creep up’ into the bridge frame holes. This is true for all series. The solution is a strange one. Lay the guitar down on a folded towel, on a solid surface (table, or work bench), the top facing upwards. Take a piece of wood and position it on the offending saddle. The wood must be thin enough to hit only one saddle at the time, and strong enough to not splinter. Then take a medium or light hammer, and hammer on the side of the wood that is sticking up. Alternately, you can use plastic. Hammer firmly but not aggressively on the wood, so that the saddle will find its way to sit flush on the bridge frame again.
   If this frightens you, then you can always remove the bridge and hammer the saddle down while the bridge is lying all by itself on the table or work bench.

The first item is considered regular maintenance. You may never run into the problem, but when you do, it is best to solve this yourself.

The second item may seem a little tricky, but it is not. As long as you do not ‘go to town’ with that hammer, and as long as you use a light or medium hammer, striking short, decisive blows ON THE PIECE OF WOOD (never on the saddle directly) there is no risk of damage.
If you prefer, you can send the guitar to me and I will do the hammering for you (and yes, I will remove the bridge if you prefer)

As always, any questions, please ask. teye@teye.com